On Monday morning we headed towards
Moissac, another one of the stops on the Chemin de Saint Jacques de
Compostelle. On the way we made a brief stop in Castelsarrasin,
which has a large church at the entrance to the town. Unfortunately,
a big renovation project was taking place all around the church,
which made it difficult to get a good unobstructed view. The town
itself was also a bit down on its heels, so after a short stroll we
left and drove to Moissac.
Moissac, which is on a canal and also
on the Tarn River, is a lively town, although Monday was closing day
for most shops. But the abbaye that the town is known for was open
to visitors, and we spent some time there. The Abbaye Saint Pierre
is almost 1,000 years old, and includes a massive cathedral and an
incredibly well preserved cloister. The cloister has 76 columns
surrounding a courtyard, with different carved figures on each
column.
On the way back from Moissac we made a
short detour to the tiny village of Le Pin, where there is a
magnificent chateau, Chateau Saint Roch. The chateau isn't open to
the public, and is surrounded by hedges and trees, but since there were no leaves on the trees yet, we could at least get a decent view of
the chateau.
The next day was market day in the
nearby town of Valence d'Agen. Although Valence is only a
modest-sized town, the market was enormous, spilling out from the
center and sprawling all over the town. There were vendors of every
kind of food product imaginable, as well as the usual cloth, clothing
and housewares stalls. We bought goat cheese from a couple of local
producers, a whole duck from a farm for roasting, foie gras,
vegetables, and the local AOC prunes – Pruneaux d'Agen – to have
with the duck. We also picked up some pastries from a patisserie in
town, and a bottle of Cotes de Brulhois wine. There is not a great
deal of wine produced in the immediate area, and no AOC's; Cotes de
Brulhois is a small VDQS appellation with just a few producers. The
principal grapes of the Brulhois wines are Tannat, Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet France and Merlot; no white wine is made in the
appellation. After leaving Valence we went back to Auvillar, where
we had lunch, including a platter of cheeses that we had just picked
up, on our patio.
That platter of cheeses made my mouth water.
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